How-To ....
Click on any of the titles below to find free instructions to sew many easy items for baby, for gifts or for yourself. We are offering easy sewing tutorials for you on making receiving blankets or swaddling blankets (the same thing basically). There is a simple quilt patteren and a great set of free instructions on "How-to Apply Satin Blanket Binding" as well as making Prairie Points from the binding. Feel free to copy the instructions and share them with others.
for postings about Current Quilt Projects
with ongoing instructions and pictures
How to Make a Flannel/Flannelette Receiving or Swaddling Blanket TOP
|
36" x 36" (42" x 42")
Supplies: 2 yards (Purchase 3 yards for the larger blanket and use the extra for a burp cloth or bib) flannel fabric. You can use 1 yard ( 1-1/4 yd.) of 2 different prints.
- Cut off selvedges & straighten edges to make a 36" (42") square
- Finish edges:
Place 2 fabrics wrong sides together & serge edge or crocheted edging.
- or -
Place 2 fabrics right sides together & sew around edge with at least a 1/4" seam allowance. Leave an opening. Cut corners diagonally and press seams open. turn to right side through opening and press edges. Stitch opening by hand or machine. To make it more sturdy - machine stitch (edge stitch) close to edge all the way around. |
How to Make a Flannel/Flannelette Double Thickness Baby Blanket TOP
(If you purchase 2 yards of each flannel you can use the extra to make a burp cloth or bib)
Supplies: 1-1/4 yd (1-2/3 yd) 2 flannels, 1 quilt batt 45' x 60", Satin blanket binding -2 packages thread.
- Trim selvedges and square fabrics to 44" x 44" (44" x 60")
- Place one flannel wrong side up. Place quilt batt on top then 2nd flannel with right side up. Pin baste quilt sandwich (or hand baste) beginning at center and working to outside. Machine stitch along edge through all layers.Quilt sandwich can be tied with embroidery floss, machine bar tacks or machine quilted.
- Adding satin binding... Stitch blanket binding by machine.
How to Apply Satin Blanket Binding TOP
|
Instructions offered by Marla from Scobey, MT
Supplies Needed
- 2 packages of Wrights Satin Blanket Binding
- Coordinating Coats & Clark Sewing Thread
- Straight Pins
- Scissors
- Quilt or Blanket
STEP 1 Beginning
Open the folded satin blanket binding and place quilt right side up with the edge against the fold of the binding. Leave a tail of binding to be added to or folded for a finished edge.
Fold the top edge of the binding over the quilt edge and pin perpendicular to the edge. Check to be sure you are catching the back in approximately the same spot.
STEP 2 Corners
Continue pinning along a straight edge and when you get to a corner extend the binding past the edge until you can make a diagonal fold to turn the corner.
Pin the back edge to stay in place while you fold the top edge. Pin. This will create a mitered corner. Go forward on the next long edge.
STEP 3 Adding More Binding
Do the same until you are near the end. You will probably have to add additional binding to get all the way around the quilt. To add the binding lay the two strips of binding at a 90 degree angle with right sides together Draw a diagonal line to follow as you sew the two strips together. Check to be sure you will have a strip that will continue the correct direction/ Trim the excess. The reason for a diagonal join is to distribute the thickness and stress on the seam.
STEP 4 End Of Binding
Continue on until you meet the end of the strip you began with and tuck on edge inside the other. Create a diagonal fold on the top binding piece to get a nice finish.
STEP 5 Stitching The Binding
Stitch by machine with a zigzag stitch to secure the binding to the quilt.
COMMENTS
"Thanks for these clear directions. I'm trying to bind two layers of fleece quilted together and was stressing about it. I appreciate your help!" Julie 11-2008 |
How to make Prairie Points from Wrights Satin Blanket Binding TOP
|
These instructions will trim a 40 inch square blanket/quilt.
Supplies Needed:
- 1 ¼ yard of 2 cotton flannel or other cotton prints.
Available at: www.flannels4baby.com
- 2 packages of Wrights Satin Blanket Binding
Available at www.flannels4baby.com
- Quilt Batting
- Ruler, pencil and scissor OR cutting mat, rotary cutter, ruler, sewing machine, serger (optional), Iron, Ironing Surface, Hand Sewing Needle, Thread
Prairie Points are the name given to a triangular shape of folded fabric used to trim the edges of a quilted item. These triangles are formed by folding a square of fabric. You can use any size square of fabric to make prairie points however, you will need to adjust the number of points needed and the space they will cover. We are using Wrights Satin Blanket Binding that has been pressed open.
STEP 1: Set iron at proper setting for the polyester satin blanket binding and press the crease out of the binding so you have a 4 inch wide ribbon.
STEP 2: Cut 4 inch squares from the ribbon of blanket binding. To complete this project you will need 48 squares.
STEP 3: Back to the ironing board. Bring lower right corner of your 4 inch square to upper left corner, giving a diagonal fold - Press. Now you have a triangular shape. Bring the upper right corner down to the lower left corner - Press.
STEP 4: Satin Blanket Binding will ravel a lot when it is cut. To keep down the strings I serged the edges. If your sewing machine zigzags well on that weight of fabric you may want to do it that way or even a straight stitch will help a little.
I open the triangle so there is just the first fold. Placing the triangle with the center of the triangle up I serge the first side to the point. I keep feeding the pieces so I have them linked together to save thread. Next I put them through the serger for the other side again starting from the center and stitching to the point. Fold triangle back to final shape.
STEP 5: Connect a string of 12 triangles. First triangle has the fold on the left, the open end on the right.
The second - third - fourth -etc. lays just inside the previous triangle overlapping by ½ inch. Hold together with a pin and use a straight stitch to link the 12 together. The 12 should measure 40 ½ inches from one edge to the other. Make 4 lengths of 12.
STEP 6: Cut fabric at 40 ½ inches square. Pin one strip of prairie points to one side, lining up the edge of the first and last triangle with the edge of your fabric. Pin at center and in between. Stitch at ¼ inch seam. If you are using flannel you may need to ease the flannel a little as it can stretch as you sew. That is why it is important to pin before sewing. Stitch a length of triangles to each side of your quilt.
STEP 7: Putting on the Backing. Place right sides together and pin. Stitch a ¼ inch seam around all edges of the quilt leaving an opening on one side about 6 inches long to turn later. Clip corners diagonally on the fabric only. Do not trim the prairie points at anytime. Securely pin the quilt batting to the edges of the quilt. Stitch around a scant ¼ inch so you are securing it to the seam allowances only. Stitch to only one layer of the quilt at the opening. Trim the batting at the corners. Now you turn the quilt right side out. Gently pull the quilt through the opening you left. When it is turned right side out work gently on the corners. Use a pin on the fabric to pull out a little if necessary. Press lightly. Use an invisible hand sewing stitch to close the opening. Machine stitch close to the edge of the quilt.
STEP 8: Secure the layers of the quilt. You can tie at appropriate intervals according to your batting or you can machine quilt. My example has been machine quilted using a medium stipple quilting.
|
How to make a crocheted edge on a reversible receiving blanket TOP
|
These instructions are courtesy of Darlene from Scobey
SUPPLY LIST
- 1 ¼ yard of 2 different flannel prints 45 inches wide
- Sewing thread
- 3 Skeins of Bernat baby lash yarn
- Size F crochet hook
Follow the instructions on the How-to page for making a flannel receiving blanket using 1 ¼ yard each of two different prints.
To add the crocheted edge
FIRST ROUND: Use a straight tailor's awl to pierce small holes about 3/8 to ½ inch apart. After piercing the first hole, use a crochet hook size F.Make a loop on the hook and then bring a loop of yarn up through the small hole, yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook(one single crochet made). Chain one stitch, and continue around making another hole, and then another single crochet, chain one stitch making four single crochets and chain one in each corner. Finish with a chain one stitch and slip stitch into first single crochet.
SECOND ROUND: Slip stitch into chain one space, chain three, make a double crochet (dc) in next chain one space, chain one (ch 1), dc in next space* repeat around ending with ch 1 and slip stitch into beginning chain 2 stitch. |
How to make a Square in a Square Small Quilt (44 inches) TOP
- Yardage (45 inch fabric) and Supplies
- Color A (center blocks & backing) 3 yards
- Color B (triangles around center block) 2 yards
- Color C (sashing & border) 2 yards
- Crib size quilt bat
- Thread
NOTE: Strips are cut on the lengthwise grain to allow for no piecing on the border strips.
CUTTING DIRECTIONS
Color A:
Cut 9 - 7inch blocks (if print is distinctive fussy cut your squares) Set remainder aside to be used for backing.
Color B: Cut 19 - 6inch squares and cut these diagonally to make 36 triangles (2 lengthwise strips will give you 18 squares)
Cut 4 -2-1/2in squares
Cut 4 strips 2-1/2 inches 60 inches long for border
Colors C: Cut 2 strips 2-1/2 inch wide and then cut 12 pieces - 9-3/4 inch long for sashing.
Cut 8 strips 2-1/2 inches wide 60 inches long for border.
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
NOTE: All seams are 1/4 inch wide. Press seams flat to seal the stitches then open seams from the wrong side; then press again from the right side. Remember pressing is an up-down motion, not a sliding one. This prevents the pieces from stretching.
Step 1: Stitch triangles to the center block on opposite sides. Press seams. Stitch remaining triangles to other sides of center block.
TIP: To center the triangle and block fold each piece to find the center. Finger press the fold or mark with a pin. Line up the two pieces and Stitch.
Trim block to 9-3/4 inches square. Center points of center square to line up for trimming and trim 1/4 inch from each point of center block.
Step 2: Sashing
Row 1: Place pieces __Block-Sashing-Block-Sashing-Block
Row 2: Place pieces __Sashing-Square-Sashing-Square-Sashing
You will have 5 rows; 3 will have blocks in them
Stitch pieces together and press seams. Stitch rows together and press seams.
Step 3: Borders (these instructions are for a mitered corner)
Stitch 2 strips of Color C and 1 strip of Color B together to form a border strip. Sew 4 sets. Press seams (The set will be C-B-C)
Mark the center of a strip and line up with the center of one side of the quilt. Pin border pieces after measuring the length of the side measurement so all 4 sides will be the same. Stitch the side beginning and ending 1/4 inch from the edge of the quilt. Do this with all sides. Press seams.
To Miter the corners press the borders so they have a 45 degree angle then stitch along the fold line. When you are sure it is stitched correctly, trim the extra fabric and press seams.
Step 4: Backing and Finishing
Measure the quilt and cut backing from Color A. You will have to piece the backing fabric. The backing should measure the exact size as the quilt top. Pin right side of the backing to the right side of the quilt, pin well and stitch around the quilt leaving an opening (approx. 9 inches) to turn the quilt.
Trim the batting to fit the quilt and pin to the edge. Stitch together in the seam allowance.
Turn the quilt through the opening. Straighten the fabrics and pull out the corners. Hand stitch the opening.
Pin or hand baste the layers together. Matching quilt, hand quilt, or tie your quilt to hold the layers together. Your batting will tell you the distance you can quilt.
I machine quilted a free motion design in the center block, in the corners and a leaf overall design in the sashing borders. |
How to Straighten Woven Fabric TOP
Woven fabrics are composed of two sets of yarns, one vertical and one horizontal. The long or vertical yarns have a finished edge where you will often find the name of the company, the print name and the circles of colors used in the printing process. The horizontal yarns are the cut edge of the fabric and they will ravel or fray. To straighten the fabric we are putting the vertical and horizontal yarns perpendicular to each other. This puts the grainline straight so the project you use the fabric for will lay straight, not curl around the body or in the quilt. Along the selvedge or vertical side of the fabric there will be no stretch, the horizontal or cut edge will show some give when pulled. The greatest amount of stretch will be on the bias, the diagonal line of the fabric.
Straightening your fabric would take place after you have pre-washed your fabric and before beginning to lay out and cut.
Step 1. Finding the horizontal thread
Look at your fabric along the cut edge. At the side that the yarns look lowest clip into the selvedge with your scissor about 1/2 inch up from the cut edge.
Find the horizontal thread and pull gently like gathering. On the picture the thread is marked with a black line. You will be able to see a line like a run in a knit fabric. You will cut along that line as far as able, then pull the thread more. If the horizontal thread breaks cut to that point and then work on the horizontal threads to get it again or another along that same line. Continue this process across the width of the fabric.
Do the same to the other cut edge of the fabric.
Step 2. Squaring up the Fabric
Fold your fabric lengthwise matching up the selvedges of the fabric. When it is smooth you may have one edge of the fabric higher than the other on the edges you just pulled the horizontal thread. Now you are going to straighten the grainline. This is done by gently tugging on the diagonal or bias line of the cloth. You can do this better with a partner. Each of you will take the short end and gently tug to get the fabric in line. Sometimes you need to move down the selvedge a little and tug there. Periodically refold the fabric to be sure you are getting it to line up. Fold it the same as at first with the selvedges lined up and fabric laying flat and smooth. You may need to check and then tug some more to straighten.
Question: Why is my fabric crooked?
When fabric is folded and rolled onto the bolt it can easily be pulled off the grainline. When purchasing fabric check this before having it cut from the bolt. If your fabric is too far off it can be almost impossible to get on grain again.
How to Make Cloth Napkins TOP
|
Cloth dinner napkins are a "good" thing for many reasons. They save on the environment by saving trees and room in the landfill, it actually takes less energy to launder cloth napkins than it does to make and throw away a paper napkin, and a cloth napkin can be used for more than one meal unless it is a messy meal. Have a special place to put them from one meal to another.
LET'S MAKE A CLOTH NAPKIN
Hemmed edge
Fringed edge
Cloth napkins can be many sizes so you can use the materials you have on hand to best advantage. In these instructions I will be concentrating on using new cotton broadcloth sold in a 45 inch width. You can purchase this fabric by clicking on this link to see our cotton prints, some are even on clearance so you will save even more.
- Decide the finished size of your napkin
12 inch square:
1 ½ yard of fabric will give you 12 napkins
Hemmed edge will be cut 13 inches square
Fringed edge will be cut 12 inches square
16 inch square:
3 yards of fabric will give you 12 napkins
Hemmed edge will be cut 17 inches square
Fringed edge will be cut 16 inches square
NOTE: If you select a different size napkin add 1 inch to the size of the square for a hemmed edge on the napkin and for a fringed edge cut the finished size.
- Straighten the cut edge of your fabric so it is on grain and your napkins will fold evenly. Click here for instructions on how to straighten woven fabrics.
- Cutting the napkins.When using new cloth I trim the selvedge and then measure over the desired amount for the size of my napkins and use a piece of fabric from the length of the fabric. Measure the fabric strip and cut or tear to get a square.
NOTE: On the 16 inch napkins you can get 2 strips of fabric for your napkins and use the leftover strip for a tablerunner.
- Finishing the edge of your napkins
Hemmed Edge: Press a narrow ¼ inch along all edges and then another ¼ inch edge.
CREATING A MITERED CORNER
Fold the corners diagonally along the 2nd pressed edge. Trim with a scissor some of the corner along the first pressed edge on the diagonal. Press the hems in with the diagonal piece inside. The pressed edges should meet and a nice sharp point should be created on the finished edge. Do same to all corners of each square.
HAND STITCHED HEM
If you need a "take with you" project you can hand stitch the hems of these napkins. Use a coordinating sewing thread about 18 inches long and a medium hand sewing needle that is comfortable for you. Use a single thread and begin along one edge. Insert your needle into the upper fold leaving a tail of your sewing thread. Backstitch to knot your thread into the fabric. Use a slip stitch to make a mostly invisible hemming stitch. To do this insert the needle into the fold close to where you inserted the thread. Slip the needle along the fold for about ¼ inch and out to pick up a single thread of the main part of the napkin. Then slip the needle and thread back into the fold of the hem. Every 3 stitches take an extra stitch in the fold of the hem to secure your hem.
MACHINE HEM
Use a sewing machine needle for Woven Fabrics and a medium size for example a size 14 from Singer. Sewing thread can match the background color of your fabric or be a contrast to create interest. The stitch length should be around a 10. Stitch close to the upper fold of the pressed hem. Remember to backstitch a couple of stitches when you begin and when you end. Clip the threads when finished.
FINISHING TOUCHES
Press your napkins with a steam iron set for the fabric type, in this case Cotton.
Practice some special folds for your napkins to give your table some Pizzaz.
If you have any questions about these instructions or other sewing questions you may email bev@flannels4baby.com.
Feel free to copy these instructions and pass them on to others. |
How to Make a Cloth Shopping Bag TOP
Go Green with cloth shopping bags. No more plastic bags to throw in the garbage. These are very easy to sew.
SUPPLIES: This will make 2 cloth shopping bags approximately 16 1/2 " wide and 18 1/2" deep and a 3" bottom
1 1/4 yard 45 inch cotton fabric - available in our Quilting Fabrics Catagories
Rotary Cutter, Board, Ruler (Optional)
Scissors to cut fabric
Ruler to measure fabric
Pencil
Pins
Sewing Thread to match fabric
Iron
STEP 1: CUTTING THE FABRIC
Trim the selvedge from each side of the fabric.
Keeping the fabric folded as it came off the bolt, cut a 4 1/2 " strip along the side where the selvedge was so you will have 2 -4 1/2" strips x 44 inches.
Keep the fabric folded as it came from the bolt and press along the folded edge matching the cut edge. Cut along the pressed fold so you have 2 pieces approximately 18" wide x 44" long. This is the main part of the 2 bags.
STEP 2: PRESSING THE FABRIC
Go to the ironing board. Your iron should be set for the type of fabric you are using, in this case probably cotton. If it is a steam iron add water
as directed by your instruction book.
Pressing the long 4 1/2" strips. These are your straps for 2 bags.
Fold in half along the long edge so you have about a 2 1/4" piece. Press along the folded edge. Next open the folded strip and fold one raw edge
to the center fold and press that edge, then so the other raw edge the same way. Fold along your first edge again and press to give a good crease.
Pressing the rectangular pieces
On the 18 inch edges fold over to the wrong side 4 inches and press. Open the fabric and fold the cut edge to the fold and press that edge.
STEP 3: SEWING THE FABRIC
At the Sewing Machine use a thread color to match or constrast the fabric you selected. Select a needle for woven fabrics in a medium size and the
stitch length for seams around a 10 - 12 and for hemming around 8 - 10.
A. Use a french seam to sew the sides of the bag. Open the pressed edge at the top of the bag and put wrong sides together. Pin, matching
the top edge and at the bottom on the fold, pin a couple of places along the edge. Stitch about 1/4 inch seam from the fold to the top.
Press the seam flat, then run the tip of the iron along the seam to open it. Turn the bag wrong side out and press along the seam to make it flat.
Use a pin to gently pull out the corner. Pin along this edge and stitch again with a generous 1/4 inch seam. You want to enclose the raw edge
with this seam, so the width of your seam needs to accomplish this. Press the seams flat and then to one side.
B. Turn the bag wrong side out. To square the bottom of the bag, center one of the side seams against the bottom of the bag so you have a point
where the seam is. Measure down from the point 1 1/2 inch and draw a straight line from one fold to the other. Stitch along this line and stitch again
about 1/4 inch away towards the point of the seam. Do the same to the other side seam/bottom edge.
C. Stitching the top edge. Fold over the top where you pressed before. Stich along the folded edge at the bottom of the pressed hem and also
stitch along the top edge.
D. Stitching the straps. Stitch along each long edge of the folded and pressed straps. Fold in half and cut along that edge so you have a total
of 4 straps (enough for 2 bags). Press the cut edge up 1 inch for a finished edge when stitched to the bag.
E. Adding the straps. Measure in from the side seams 3 1/2 inches and place one of the strap pieces on the outside edge at that mark. Pin in place
and place the other edge of that same strap along the other mark 3 1/2 inches in. Pin in place. Stitch along the 3 edges about 1 inch up and then
across the top finally stitching diagonally one way and then another so you form an "X". This will secure the strap on the bag. Do the other strap
the same way.
FINISHING:
Give your bag a final pressing and wrap it up for someone who appreciates a practical and "green" gift, or use the bag itself as a gift bag and fill with goodies.
Share with your friends 
